What goes down...must come UP

So I’ve decided that the very ironic thing about keeping a blog is that when you have the MOST to write about, you have the LEAST time to write about it! I honestly do not know where to begin (which is probably why this has taken me so long to muster up the energy to write in the first place)

I want to tell you about my kids and about the city and just some fun adventures but I’m going to dedicate this entry to my experience this past weekend: Colca Canyon.

Just to give you a bit of background...

With the program I signed up for, many excursions were included. This was most definitely one of them. Let’s be clear. I’ve definitely had some changes but I still would not choose an entire of intense hiking on my own free will.

From where we started, Colca Canyon measures exactly equal to the depth of the Grand Canyon which puts it at a tie for the 2nd deepest canyon in the world (although there is another spot in Colca that if measured from there, puts it at the deepest canyon on earth). So needless to say, this sucker was deep.

Add to that, the top of the canyon is at about 3400 meters or so (10000 feet) so altitude can get very tricky. The altitude also makes it FREEZING here at night and BOILING during the day. So you have to pack for al types of weather. Oh...and you have to carry your pack with you the entire time.

And so the fun begins...

So Friday morning at 4:30 am (does that even count as morning??) we boarded the bus to Colca. After about 4 hours of head bopping in the van, we arrived at Cruz del Condor (Cross of the Condor) at about 4000 meters...highest point of the trip It was here we were supposed to see these amazing, enormous condors that spanned nearly 10 feet in length.

Somehow the condors must have gotten the message that we were coming and they slept in late. So no condors for us. But we decided to walk down a couple flights of stairs to get a better lookout point and take some nice photos.
Seemed like a great idea. Until we had to climb up the stairs. So there I went...climbing the stairs when suddenly, I couldn’t hear or see and my legs felt like they belonged to a different person. Yep. 10 minutes in and I was moments away from fainting.

Luckily, I managed to find a rock, sit down with my head between my legs and regain consciousness. It was at this point that I began to panic. Two flights of stairs...deepest canyon in the world...two flights of stairs...hmmm...you do the math.

Suddenly, our guide Luz showed up with a little sucking candy for me. Now I have no idea what were in these candies but let me tell you...do NOT leave home without these babies if you want to go to extreme altitude and NOT look at condors. Apparently, some people have some issues with blood sugar at altitude and I guess I am one of those people. But have no fear...I managed to remain conscious for the rest of the trip.

We left the non-condor look-out point and drove another couple hours to where we were starting our hike. We stopped at a place for a bite before the big descent. It was at this lunch that mishap number two happened.

Lucky for me, I was not the victim of this one but one of the girls, Jessica, asked if anyone had any ibiprofun (aka: Advil) to take for her headache. Dorothy, another volunteer, quickly came to the rescue and dispensed two pill for Jessica. Down the hatch. Well, as it turns out, Dorothy had mistaken Ibiprofun for Immodium (extreme anti-diarrheal pills). Let’s just say that Jessica wasn’t using too much of our toilet paper supply during this trip. It was hilarious.

Ok...so we filled our water bottles, got our walking sticks (aka...my lifesaver) and started on down the canyon.
Please do not be decieved. Yes this part of the hike was downhill but it was by no means easy. We were slipping and sliding down loose rocks on the edges of steep drop offs (sorry again mom) and this went on for about 5.5 hours. Yep. 5.5 hours of switchbacks down a canyon.

Again...I think I’m an ok writer but trying to explin this is impossible. And I never claim to be a photographer but I’m telling you that even Ansel Adams could not capture the depth and beauty of this place on the way down. But of course, I gave it a try...
After the 5.5. Hours down, we arrived at the basin of the canyon to the river. We were at the bridge that I had been aiming towards since about hour 3. I sat down, examined my blisters, bandaid-ed them, refilled my water and off we went again.
As it turns out, what goes down, must come up. So up we went for about 1.5 hours. It was tough. Again, no way to describe it.

My legs hurt, my ass hurt...but this was actually a really beautiful part of the hike. After spending 5+ hours looking at nothing but rocks slipping below my feet, it was nice to actually look around a bit and enjoy the view.

This picture shows how far we went up the first night to our little village where we slept. When we climbed over the last bit and realized we were “there”, our hard work was more than rewarded with an amazing sunset...
After the sun dropped behind the canyon, we were off to check out our digs for the night. I think I can officially say that this place was far and away the more “rustic” (aka...complete shithole) that I’ve ever stayed in. I don’t know how it’s possible but this picture somehow makes it look much nicer than it was.
But I wasn’t complaining...I was just happy to not be trembling while hanging on for dear life to my trusty walking stick. Immediately after arriving at this Hilton in the canyon, we were abondon by our guide and had no idea where she went (this was a reoccruing theme throughout the weekend...I think Luz had other plans than hanging out listening to our complaints of aching muscles)

After wondering around like the confused tourists we are for a while, we finally ate dinner and (surprise, surprise), went directly the bed. It may have been “rustic” but I was completely unconcious for the huge majority of my time there so it was fine.

Up bright and early the next morning...we had a canyon to haul our asses out of!

So we started going back downhill to the basin (whoever planned this down, up, down back up thing seriously needs counseling). On our way, we visited this little cultural museum in the middles of nowhere.

Nothing like trying bizarre fruits, local alcohol brews and sporting local fashion in the middle of the canyon...
After the museum, we made it down the the basin, went up for about 30 minutes and suddenly, it was like I was in a different world.

Apparently, there must have been other tourist hikers in the past like me who were thinking, “you know what this place needs? An amazing pool to swim in!” Enter the “Oasis.” So bizarre but in the middle of all this was the most amazing little place complete with aqua pools and palm trees...see the pictures...

After a dip and a great pasta lunch, I was feeling like I actually might have it in me to climb the 3000+ feet outta here.

Well, my body had different plans. I started off strong. Climbed for about 40 minutes. And then I realized it...I was just out of my league. I could barely breathe, I could barely push my butt up one more step.

It was then that I decided to call in for backup...I got a mule to take me the rest of the way up.

Just to show my readers...this is as far up as I went...

And this is as far as I had to go...

I have to say that as silly as it seems now, at the time, I was really upset that I couldn’t finish the canyon. I’m usually a person who would be dragged across a finish line with bloody knees rather than call it quits. So there I was, waiting for my mule, crying in the middle of a canyon.

It was definitely the low point of the weekend but again, a good experience. So my mule, Negra, came to save me along with 2 other volunteers who had already decided to ride the mules and off we went. And let me tell you, the mule experience was definitely an experience in itself.

Our mules for one, hated each other and bit each other at every opportunity. We were also completley out of control (no reigns) of these animals as they walked ridiculously close to the edge of steep cliffs slipping on rocks. Blood pressure was rising...

But we made it to the top. And it was a great feeling...
Back to the hostal, dinner, lose consciousness...etc. The next morning, we started our trip back to Arequipa.

Along the way, we went t an awesome outlook and visited some amazing hot springs and Luz completely redeemed herself by serving us ice cream pool side.
So overall, it was a difficult, inspiring, humbling, at times impossible, hilarious, horrible and wonderful experience all in one.
xoxo,
Debra